Finishing Before You Begin

Here's simple technique that separates high end garments from low end.  After you've cut out your garment's pieces, and before you begin sewing it together, serge all the raw edges that will need to be serged.  Refer to the pattern's instructions on which edges these will be, as it should tell you what edges need to be finished.  Scope the picture to the right, these will be the side seams on the front pieces of a shirt I am doing, pictured is the edge underneath the arm scythe.  I also serged the long edges of the arms, the sides of the back piece, and I also do the bottom of the front and back pieces because I will only wear this shirt tucked in and I'm too lazy to roll it over after I'm done.  So why bother doing this, when many off-the-rack items serge the pieces together in the end, you're wondering? 
When you serge two pieces together, such as the side seams of a shirt or a pair of pants, the two pieces, which are now one piece, will 'flop' one way and pull both pieces in that direction, creating a small plateau on the outside along the seam.  It's hard to explain, too difficult to take a picture of, but it's easy to see yourself.  Grab any garment that's finished in such a way, put it on, and look at the seam in the mirror.  You'll see, and feel, the fabric going to one side or the other.  While minor and rarely noticed by others, it can look funny on pants as it tends to change directions along the seam, making it curvy instead of straight.  It's more easily noticed in tight fitting clothes, like jeans.  Now that you've read this, you'll probably be looking at every seam you see for it.  Welcome to the nightmare, but you'll get over it.
Serging these seams before sewing is the first step in eliminating that plateau.  The second is just as easy.  After sewing the two pieces together, press open the seams flat, like so:

If you've sewn any garment with a lining, you'll be used to doing this!  If you don't press the seam open, the two pieces will naturally come together to one side and form that plateau, completely negating this whole process.  When pressed open, there won't be a plateau to one side or the other, but a straight, even line down the length of the seam.  Again, this is not very noticeable, but definitely adds a level of professionalism to your garments.  And you can also make people hate you by pointing out that plateau effect in their clothes.
-Cat

White fabric for the French cuff shirt is 100% Organic Cotton from Michael Levine in Downtown Los Angeles, also available online here.  This is my go to fabric for white.  It's incredibly soft, and has a very similar texture and sheer to Oxford.  Not too thin, yet very light. 

Black fabric is 100% Cotton Twill from Fashion Fabrics Club, but is no longer available by the bolt, to my dismay.